Medieval Costumes for Adults
History of medieval costume
Costume during the thirteenth century in England was very simple for both men and women, and quite uniform across the country. Male and female clothing were relatively similar, and changed very slowly, if at all. Most clothing, especially outside the wealthier classes, remained little changed from three or four centuries earlier. The century saw great progress in the dyeing and working of wool, which was by far the most important material for outer wear. For the rich, colour was very important. Blue was introduced and became very fashionable.
Men wore a tunic, cote or cotte with a surcoat over a linen shirt. One of these surcoats was the cyclas, which began as a rectangular piece of cloth with a hole in it for the head. Over time the sides were sewn together to make a long, sleeveless tunic. When sleeves and sometimes a hood were added, the cyclas became a ganache (a cap-sleeved surcoat, usually shown with hood of matching color) or a gardcorps (a long, generous-sleeved traveling robe, somewhat resembling a modern academic robe). A mantle was worn as a formal wrap. Men also wore hose, shoes, and headdress. The clothing of royalty was set apart by its rich fabric and luxurious furs. Hair and beard were moderate in length, and men generally wore their hair in a “pageboy” style, curling under at necklength. Shoes were slightly pointed, and embroidered for royalty and higher clergy.
Working men wore a short coat, or tunic, with a belt. It was slit up the centre of the front so that they could tuck the corners into their belt to create more freedom of movement. They wore long braies or leggings with legs of varying length, often visible as they worked with their cotte tucked into their belt. Hose could be worn over this, attached to the drawstring or belt at the waist. Hats included a round cap with a slight brim, the beret (just like modern French ones, complete with a little tab at the top), the coif (a little tight white hood with strings that tied under the chin), the straw hat (in widespread use among farmworkers), and the chaperon, then still a hood that came round the neck and over the shoulders. Certain trades, such as smithing, wore aprons and agricultural workers wore crude clothes tied round the neck to hold seed for sowing.
Dress for women was modest and restrained. A floor-length, loosely-fitted gown, with long, tight sleeves and a narrow belt was uniform. Over it was worn the cyclas or sleeveless surcoat also worn by men. More wealthy women wore more embroidery and their mantle, held in place by a cord across the chest, might be lined with fur. Women, like men, wore hose and leather shoes.
Individuality in women’s costume was expressed through their hair and headdress. One distinctive feature of women’s headwear was the barbette, a chin band to which a hat or various other headdress might be attached. This hat might be a “woman’s coif”, which more nearly resembled a pillbox hat, severely plain or fluted. The hair was often confined by a net called a crespine or crespinette, visible only at the back. Later in the century the barbette and coif were reduced to narrow strips of cloth, and the entire hairdress might be covered with the crespine, the hair fashionable bulky over the ears. Coif and barbettes were white, while the crespine might be coloured or gold. The wimple and veil of the 12th century still seen on nuns today was still worn, mainly by older women and widows.
Shoes began to develop a pointed toe at this time; however, they were much more restrained than they were in the fourteenth century. The usual shoe for men opened at the front, from the instep to the toe. Commoners also wore stockings with leather sown to the sole, and wooden clogs. Woollen garters were also worn by commoners.
WHO WILL YOU BE?
There are good examples of medieval costume on the internet
Feudals Living History Group http://www.feudals.org.uk/
WHERE CAN I BUY OR HIRE MEDIEVAL COSTUMES?
- Hampshire County Council Costume Library– Over 5,000 costumes to hire including medieval.
Chilcomb Lane, Bar End, Winchester. SO23 8RD By appointment only, 01962 826725. - Hampshire Wardrobe fancy Dress Hire:
http://www3.hants.gov.uk/wardrobe/ - Giggles;
228-230 Fleet Road, Fleet, GU51 4BY 01252 816009 gigglesfancydress.co.uk/ - The Stage Wardrobe:
189 Reading Road South, Church Crookham, GU52 6AQ. 01252629954 http://www.thestagewardrobe.com/ - Party Cheer:
5 Cambridge Place, East Street, Farnham, GU9 7RX 01252 448434 http://www.partycheer.co.uk/ - Party Workshop: Hackwood Road, Basingstoke, RG21 3AE. 01255 329414 10% discount for Odiham events.
See www.sales@partyworkshop.co.uk - Amazon and Ebay – Both have quite a lot of medieval costumes on sale.
- Hampshire County Council Costume Library– Over 5,000 costumes to hire including medieval.
HOW CAN I MAKE MY OWN COSTUME?
We are very grateful to the Feudals Living History Group for allowing us the use of their patterns of authentic medieval clothing. They will be at Odiham Castle May 23rd-25th at the Living Village, Magna Carta celebrations –see the events section on this website.
To obtain these patterns email barbara.igra@odiham-society.org.
Patterns for medieval clothes can also be obtained from stockists of Butterick, Vogue, Style and Simplicity Dress Patterns.
Images for “Medieval costume patterns”: https://www.google.com/search?q=medieval+costume+patterns&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=899&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZY_FVPr-LKH97AbjtoCYCQ&ved=0CBwQsAQ
Traditionally clothes were hand sewn and dresses and cottes were generally made from wool but were also made of heavier linen with finer linen used for underwear. If you can find plain linen-like fabric that would work well and machine sewing will perhaps be a more convenient and very acceptable method.
JAN MORTON OF SEW-DIFFERENT DRESSMAKERS OF NORTH WARNBOROUGH.
Jan Morton (https://www.facebook.com/SewDifferent) has kindly volunteered to arrange a workshop to help with costume making. This will be held at the Bridewell (Library) in the Bury on March 28th 2015 . If you would like to book a session and be notified of the full details please email barbara.igra@odiham-society.org. There will be no charge for these sessions.
Jan has her own studio in North Warnborough and will also host teaching sessions for one or two people at a time. These will run for two hours each and you will get individual attention to assist in any aspect of sewing your own costume, including learning the basics, if necessary. Jan usually charges £60 per person for one to one (or one to two) teaching but has kindly offered to give Magna Carta costume makers a reduction of 20% so an individual session will cost £48. To book the individual sessions please contact Jan on 07974 333503 or jan@sew-different.co.uk.